Tale of Two African Cities: Jos (Nigeria) and Cape-Coast (Ghana)

By Wakdok, Samuel Stephen and N. Amma Twum-Baah (Published February 1, 2010)

Amma, you can really cuddle the rocks and kiss them. When you climb the hills you will actually touch the clouds because you can not help but imagine how the mountains are locked in an embrace with the sky. The sweetest thing for me is the smell of its harmattan. It will give you a crown of white hair on your head. The rains can stay with you all day and escort you to bed, and when you wake at dawn, like a faithful dog the rains will be waiting on you. This is the Jos they may never know, because the various sectarian crises both ethnic and religious have raped this once city of Peace and tourism. Jos the capital city of Plateau state, in North Central Nigeria, Africa.

Jos is one of the coolest cities to live on earth. Naturally blessed and humanly dressed. The tourism of this town is breath taking, the weather is seducing, the atmosphere superb, the people are wonderful. The main indigenes of Jos are the Beroms, Afizire (Jarawa) and Anagutas. The Hausa/Fulani settlers are the next in contention, their expansionist tendencies have caused various strives in recent years and even as I edit this article. As the capital of Plateau state, other tribes from all over the state live and work in Jos; Ngas, Gommai, Mughuavul, Mupun, Quan, Pan,Taroh, Bassa etc.  It is a pot mixed with different grills. Other tribes and people from all over Nigeria and even foreigners find Jos very conducive to live because of its near Mediterranean weather.

Prior to the debut of home video in Nigeria which midwife the birth of Nollywood; Jos was the theatre and drama capital of Nigeria. The National Film Institute, The Nigerian Institute of Journalism and the Nigerian Television Authority College all sit in Jos. The Headquarters of Industrial Training Funds is also in Jos. The theater arts department of the University of Jos has produced the best acts and talents in Nigeria.

Talking about the University of Jos; Jos is like a weeping mother without her university. The University ofJos gives soul to the town. It influences the economic and social life of the city. In UJ or U-Jay as the school is known, gentlemen and ladies mingle freely; Amma, the fact that a guy could show up on your door step at any moment makes it germane for cleanliness and personal hygiene. We also had pots to run to when we were hungry in these female hostels. The phrase” kaduna Mafia” which was dominant in the political equation of Nigeria representing the powerful Northern power brokers was coined by the present Vice Chancellor of the University, Professor Sonny Tyoden. Professor Ali Mazrui, the renowned international African scholar is a professor at large of the university.

When you take a trip to the Wildlife Park or visit the Ray field resort. Oh my --- The museum of African Arts boast of the largest congregation of people on the 26th of December every year. Shere Hills is one sweet place to visit in Jos, the combination of its mountains and waters exudes so much beauty and splendor. At Shere Hills nature is in communion with the city.

The comedy of bloody rivalry between the two main football teams, Plateau United and Mighty Jets will make you laugh and cry simultaneously at the Jos township stadium. For those who love to give themselves a treat; West of Mines is that place where meat and drinks respect the kingship of man. This Tin city called Jos, earned Nigeria foreign exchange before the discovery of crude oil. You will still see the tin mines as legacy of colonial exploitation of the people’s land and wealth. Jos is the home of Irish potatoes. Our ladies love Pringles we the men are at home with chips. The cold weather makes it attractive to keep poultry and fish ponds.

The city is tops in education and social activities. Some of the best schools are located in and around Jos. Kent Academy Miango, a primary school with boarding facilities. Hillcrest, a first generation foreign tailored secondary school. St Louis College, St. Augustine’s major seminary until recently was the only catholic major seminary in the Northern part of Nigeria. The institution with the highest honours in the country: National Institute for Policy and Strategic Studies is in Kuru near Jos. The University of Jos Teaching Hospital, Plateau Specialist Hospital, ECWA Evangel Hospital, Our lady of Apostles Hospitals; are among the best health facilities. Various churches both orthodox and Pentecostals have their headquarters in Jos.

Jos may not be the cradle of civilization, it is not the best town on earth, but surely it is a place to be. J-Town as the charming town is called, Josites as we of Jos are referred to, the town allures, she seduces and captivates. Jos holds those it calls and calls those it loves. In Jos; Life is serendipity, life is simple, life is fulfilling. When you dare Jos, you will be consumed; when you date Jos you will be dazzled. Jos has what it takes to hold you captive. It ceases your breathe and makes you exhale at same time.

Those who love Jos can never love another; those who have never known Jos do not know what they are missing. Jos is a lovers’ town. The ladies are beautifully created as the city; the guys are as solid as its rocks. The people may not all be from Jos but they are all of Jos.The city you may never know is one city, where nature was made to please man and man was created to exhaust the pleasure of nature. In harmony both man and nature continue to thrill themselves.

Amma, life must not begin or end in Jos, but in Jos; life is beautiful and that is why we pray for a speedy return of peace to Jos but I am wont to say that peace without Justice is but an illusion.

Sammy, how do I put into words my love and awe of this intellectual city? I am trying to find a way to describe the city of Cape Coast in words as eloquent as those you used to describe Jos, and I am completely lost for words – but I’ll try!  Cape Coast is the birthplace of my mother, the birthplace of my intellect as a woman, and the place that gave birth to my deep-seated values. See, I was educated in one of the elite schools that sit atop a hill in the magnificent city of Cape Coast. It was here that I made lifelong friendships and grew from a child into a young woman. It was here that I learned discipline and respect for self. I have very fond memories of this place called Oguaa (the local name for the city). The majority of my time spent in Ghana was in the capital city of Accra; but the memorable trips to Cape Coast, and the short time spent living there in a boarding school remain my greatest joy.

Cape Coast is the capital city of the Central region of Ghana. It sits beautifully and majestically along the central coastal shore of Ghana; and once was the trading center of the Gold Coast. Cape Coast was the first capital city of Ghana until the capital was moved to its current post in Accra. Fante is the major language of the people of Oguaa; and, much like the people who speak it; the fante language possesses a sensuality and flare all its own.

The city houses some of the most historic memories linked to the pain of its past, and is one of many attractions to foreigners eager for a taste of that past. Matter of fact, one has not experienced Ghana until they have had a taste of the hospitality of the people of this majestic city. The recent trip of America’s first African American first family bears witness to this fact!

Sam, the story of Cape Coast swims in murky waters. Cape Coast derived its name from the Portuguese word cabo corso which means “short cape.” The Portuguese were the first foreigners to arrive on this coastal city – they came around the 15th century. Deep in the pride of the fante people lies a sorrow of their past. The city was once the port of the slave trade and currently houses remnants and monuments that serve as reminders of what happened along this coast several decades ago. The Cape Coast castle is one such monument that bears witness to what was once a painful and frightful place.

A walk along the coast is a sight to see: fishermen dragging in their nets full of the days catch, women haggling over the prices of what the fishermen have just dragged in, children running up and down the coast, some doing somersaults without a care in the world.

For peace and quiet, the many beach resorts that line the coastal shore afford you just that. From the whistle of the palm trees to the chirping of birds and calls of frogs and toads, nature never afforded such a sense of serenity than along the coast of this beautifully blessed city.  Here you would find tourists and locals basking in the afternoon sun, some sipping on drinks of immense pleasure and satisfaction; while others abandon the shore to take a dip in the ocean’s caressing waves. 

Cape Coast boasts of some of Ghana’s most elite secondary schools – Holy Child School, Wesley Girls High School and Mfantsipim Boy’s Secondary School - as well as one of the country’s major Universities, the University of Cape Coast.

Tourism has fast taken over as the main attraction of this friendly city. Besides its many coastal attractions Cape Coast boasts of two other major tourist attractions: The Kakum National Park and Akatekyir Crocodile pond.

Kakum National Park is home to the first canopy walkway that sits above the forest floor and hangs high up above the forest trees. A trip across the canopy is one to savor for years. It is an experience worth taken by the brave, and better not experienced by those fearful of heights. The day I made it across from one end to the other, I knew there was no mountain I couldn’t climb!

The crocodile pond is another adventure worth experiencing. Try standing in the hut located in the middle of the pond surrounded by fierce looking crocodiles ready to tear apart any prey that dares to fall into their territory. The crocs are known to respond to the summons of a fetish priest – it is a sight worth beholding.

To visit Cape Coast and come out unimpressed means one needs to undergo an inner self-evaluation. There is not a thing to begrudge this mesmerizing city. The city speaks for itself, and a trip into its bosom is one worth experiencing over and over again.

Samuel Ghana beckons on you and the world.

(This feature was completed just two days before the civil unrest that disrupted the once peaceful city of Jos. Our hearts go out to families of the victims, and to those displaced by the fighting in Jos in the last few weeks.)

Wakdok, Samuel Stephen, a Nigerian is the brain that powers Credo World Media: http://www.credoworldmedia.wordpress.com/ and N. Amma Twum-Baah a Ghanaian based in the United States is the Publisher and Editor-in-Chief of Afrikan Goddess: http://email.africa.int.zenithbank.com/owa/redir.aspx?C=6d234e9eba1841c89e60ead8009bee87&URL=http%3a%2f%2fwww.afrikangoddess.com